[surenot58]

12,134 miles on 2022 Taos. The check engine light, the EOC light came on, and the car went into limp mode with 4,000 a RPM limit. The dealership said it was because I did not have the oil dip stick in all the way. I have a lot of experience with cars, Army tanks, and RVs. I know how to check the oil. That was when the argument started. LOL. So, the dealership reset everything, gave me a free car wash, and the Taos was just fine for about 1200 miles on a long road trip. The check engine light came on again. I pulled into a Loves Travel Stop and checked the oil. It was OK, the oil level full, and the gas cap was on tight. I had not "topped it off" or anything. The check engine light did light not go out. But, I did get it to go out. Here is how: I started the car and with the engine running, I pulled the dip stick out twice and and reinserted it while the engine was running. The engine makes a sucking air sound without the dip stick. If you look at the dip stick, there are two rubber "O-rings" where the dip stick seals the engine and prevents air from entering the dip stick tube. I turned off the car and waited about one minute. After restarting the car, the check engine light was out. I have driven over 1,000 miles since then and the check engine warning light has stayed out. My guess is that the O-rings must work together. Perhaps three O-rings are needed? I have an assortment of heat proof O-rings from Harbor Freight if it happens again. The other possibility is a N-80 module in the engine compartment gets clogged with oil and gas vapors and gets cleared when you pull the dip stick out, when the engine is running, and reinsert it a couple of times. I hope this helps because when you are on a road trip, it's hard to fund help. The Taos is a great car and I plan on keeping it. I put on my last car, 2010 Subaru Outback, 197,212 miles on it before I traded it in for the 2022 Taos. By the way, I know how to check the oil.

 

[scgcorti95]

When the engine is running, that sucking air noise when removing dip stick is normal, the engine might rev high or dip a little as it takes a few seconds to compensate for the air change. This is a non-issue and doesn't cause any damage.

 

[surenot58]

Thanks for responding. My check engine light came on again after a long trip. It was running fine but after sitting for two nights it came on after the car was started. To fix it, I drove the car for about three miles, and I stopped the car. I opened the gas cap and I put the gas cap back and off again. I made sure the cap made one click when I put the cap back on the last time. When I started the car, the check engine light was out. So, it appears the problem is related to fuel system. The cap had been put on correctly. I had drive 355 miles at high speeds. Some toll roads in Texas
have an 80 MPH speed limit. The car runs great and averaged 34.4 MPG for those 355 miles. Great car and I am keeping it. Maybe the computer warning system is over sensitive? My question is why the gas cap does not have any sort of flexible gasket on the gas cap? Does it need a gasket?

 

[surenot58]

Update: I took a good look at the gas cap. It does have a brown flexible gasket on it. But I did notice, when you get gas, you must listen for a click and then stop. Don't try to tighten it anymore. I will post any more issues with the check engine light.

 

[surenot58]

Check Engine light, 2022 VW Taos, SE, AWD. Check engine light was on for over 200 miles. I took it to the VW Dealership where I bought it. The Service Rep told me they were short on mechanics, it was a busy time of the year, there were twelve cars ahead of me, so they could not even look at it. They would not even reset the codes. They would not even look at it. The rep told me it was OK to drive it on a 2,000 mile road trip to go to a funeral with the check engine light on. Or, he said I could "fly". Apparently, this is how VW Corporation is dealing with a "new model problem". If a VW Dealership cannot or does not want to fix the problem, on a new car, then maybe people will quit buying their cars. However, after I spoke with knowlegeable friends about the check engine light, I concluded this problem is on many cars, many American cars, and they had check engine lights come on and go out for no apparent reason. So, here is how I fixed it. I disconnected the negative battery terminal. I cleaned both terminals with a wire brush. I put the terminals back on and put some anti-corrosion grease on them. I started up the car. The dash board started giving me "crazy messages". After starting and stopping the car and driving here and there, the check engine light went out. I later went to an auto parts store and bought an inexpensive ODB2 engine code reader (Innova 3100). I followed the instructions carefully. The fault codes displayed were: P24.06, P24.07, P24.08. I left the reader hooked up while I went to look up what the codes ment. It means "evap". When I went back to the reader, all the error codes were clear and a nice green light glowed indicating no engine faults. The car runs fine. You know, it's a shame someone in their 70's has to fix things themselves. Thank you Volkswagon.

 

[surenot58]

I had been thinking of getting a VW EV when available. However, I will see what happens with electronic problems on new VW EV models - first.

 

[parabola]

I haven’t seen CEL on my two VWs in years, feels strange